Arkansas Canoe Club Forums

I have a 12 footer I got off of paddledog.... I'm going to make my frame out of the outdoor play fitting. I have all the parts to install the oars. I need some help on the oars.... How long?brand? And anything else I should consider???
This raft will be a kid hauler for the buff, piney,and maybe the tot when I learn how to row it!! So I don't have to have the best looking for some budget savy oars!! Anything else I should know please chime in!

So Steve just threw it out of the truck at the end of your driveway, with no advice or guidance? Sounds like 'Dog.-M-

magicmike wrote:So Steve just threw it out of the truck at the end of your driveway, with no advice or guidance? Sounds like 'Dog.-M-

Dang, Mike, throw me under the bus will ya.......

8-9' oars. I have an 11.5 raft and have 8' oars. You can get 8's and get extensions if too short. As you'll find out Carlisle are the cheapest, also heaviest. Counterweights can really take the strain off the oarsman. Somebody I know uses an aluminum beer bottle full of sand zip tied to oarshaft. Check Mountainbuzz's classifieds as there is much more equipment turnover out there.
If you buy new be warned that shafts and blades are separate pieces. Get a spare while you are at it.

After hauling kids in a canoe then a raft, the raft wins hands-down. We took my 14' with 4 adults (plus me) from Steel Creek to Kyles at 2.9 on gauge. Never would have guessed that one. Did not drag or hit a rock. 3.5 is so much better.

For a twelve footer eights should work pretty well. Are you sure you're ordering fittings from Outdoor Play and not Frontier Play?

Luke... You are correct , it's froniter play! Im sure Steve told me everything I needed to know but I was headed to the ford and he had something going also. I have just forgotten what he told me!! I'll get to looking out west for some 8footers

Okay, cool. I built a frame with Frontier Play fittings and 1.25 EMT. The fittings worked great; the 1.25 EMT not so much, so I redid it with 1.5 and that was considerably better. There are more durable options than EMT but I'm largely focused on cost since I use my rig primarily as a gear hauler. While you're ordering the fittings check Darren's oar selection. Sometimes he has used ones that don't even look used. Also, he'll sell you anything on NRS's web site at a discount. Finally, don't hesitate to ask his advice. He's a great guy and very willing to help you figure it out.

Thanks for the input guys... And if you see any cheap oars please direct me!

Hey Steve,

Here's my take on it:

To best determine oar length one must take into account the overall geometry of the raft/frame setup. Specifically, the raft's tube diameter, draft under typical loading, rower's torso length and seat/oar tower height (absolutely critical) are analyzed to determine proper oar length when blade has purchase. A general rule is 2/3 of the oar length outboard of the locks and 2-4" between handles when oars are perpendicular to the water's surface. Use the attached diagram to plan your setup and you'll likely have fairly balanced oars and not need counterweights. Bottom line is get your frame/seat (or seats - dry box and/or tractor seat), oar towers/locks and foot bar locations set BEFORE buying oars.

Some great info can be found at: http://raftframe.com/

Hope this is helpful,
Paul

When I was a little boy, I had an uncle who was a genealogist , and I made the mistake 'once' of asking him what he was doing in his study, I'm sure I was hoping for the short answer. Later, when I still hadn't learned my lesson, I had a friend who was a steam-railroad mechanic and engineer and asked him what an eccentric was and to explain it in more detail. I think I will just refer to the diagram

Best Regards
Jim

If it weren't for the Paul Smiths of the world, we'd still be living in caves-M-

And rowing with "Jerry rigged, too long oars" ,on our "driveway dropped" bucket boat.-M-

I'm a poverty boater at heart.

Paul
Chief, PBI (Poverty Boaters International) Corporate Flight Dept.

Luke Coop, President and CEO

It's true we finally admitted Paul but only after he agreed to let me weld a Star logo on his Super Puma. At PBI we believe it's beneficial to present a variety of perspectives on rafts and rigging. To that end I've attached another diagram you might find useful. Please don't try to claim it as your own as the copyright process is in motion.

That's a decent sketch POPBI. One more thing to consider: If you wind up using NRS springs and keepers on your oar locks make sure you install the spring PBI-style which is right under the lock and not below the receptacle. Doing it this way acts as sort of a shock absorber especially when using oars made from cannibalized frame tubes and livery paddles.