Today Nuttall's drawings and descriptions of recognizable places along the Arkansas River provide a glimpse of The Natural State's presettlement history--thick forests and all. Recently I took the opportunity to fly over Pinnacle Mountain (known as "Mamelle" in Nuttall's day), Cadron Creek, Petit Jean ("Little John"), Mt. Nebo, Mt. Magazine, the Garrison at Belle Point (a.k.a. Fort Smith), and points of interest along the river in eastern Oklahoma. The survey allowed me to follow consecutively and photograph the landmarks Nuttall encountered during his passage between La Petite Roche and Belle Point. Here are a few of the places Nuttall describes during this fun and informative trip.
Though always pleasingly amused by the incidents of travelling, and the delightful aspect of rude or rural nature, I could not at this time divert from my mind the most serious reflections on the magnitude and danger of the journey which now lay before me, and which was, indeed, of very uncertain issue. –Thomas Nuttall departing Philadelphia in 1818 for his explorations into Arkansa Territory
"Mamelle" (now known as Pinnacle Mountain)
"In the afternoon I crossed the river, and ascended to the summit of these lofty cliffs of slaty and siliceous sandstone, where, from an elevation of about 600 feet, I obtained a panorama view of the surrounding country, checquered with low mountains running in chains from the north of west to south of east, The meanders of the river appeared partly hid in the pervading forests of its alluvial lands, still fertile and expansive. To the west, the lofty, conic, and broken hill called the Mamelle now appeared nearly double the elevation of that on which I stood, probably more than 1000 feet in height." –Nuttall takes note of Mamelle, now known as Pinnacle Mountain, and the countryside near present-day Little Rock on May 23, 1819
Cadron Settlement
"On [May 27th] we arrived at the Cadron settlement, containing in a contiguous space about five or six families.” –Nuttall in 1819
"Little John" mountain
Petit Jean's Cedar Falls
"From the summit a vast wilderness presented itself covered with trees, and chequered with ranges of mountains, which appeared to augment and converge toward the north-west." -Thomas Nuttall on reaching the top of Arkansas's Petit Jean ("Little John") Mountain in 1819
Dardanelle Rock
“. . . I hastened to examine the neighboring ridge of rocks, which originated the name of the Dardanelle . . . and I amused myself by ascending the ridge, which, at the first approach, appeared to be inaccessible. At length I gained the summit, which, at the highest point on the bank of the river, might be about 300 feet. The rock was a massive sandstone . . . ” –Nuttall scrambles to the top of Dardanelle Rock
The original "Magazin Mountain" (now known as Mt. Nebo)
“From the summit [of Dardanelle Rock] opened another sublime view of the surrounding country . . . The Magazine mountain to the west, though, at first, apparently so near, is not less than 10 miles distant, looking if any thing, more considerably elevated than the Mamelle, and probably not less than 1200 feet high.” –Nuttall describes what is known today as Mt. Nebo (modern-day Mt. Magazine, Arkansas’s highest point at 2,753', lies about 20 miles west)
The new Mt. Magazine lodge
“A lofty blue ridge appears to the south, called by the French hunters the Cassetete or Tomahawk mountain, and about eight miles from hence enters the creek of the same name . . . We saw, as we proceeded, no less than 13 deer and a bear.” –Nuttall describing wildlife and modern-day Mt. Magazine (then known as "Tomahawk mountain") as seen from the Arkansas River
Fort Smith's "Garrison" Avenue
“The garrison [of Fort Smith], consisting of two block-houses, and lines of cabins or barracks for the accommodation of 70 men whom it contains, is agreeably situated at the junction of the Pottoe [River], on a rising ground of about 50 feet elevation, and surrounded by alluvial and uplands of unusual fertility. The view is more commanding and picturesque, than any other spot of equal elevation on the banks of the Arkansa.” –Nuttall commenting on Fort Smith in 1819
Modern-day agricultural fires
"On the 29th [of April, 1819], I took an agreeable walk into the adjoining prairie, which is about two miles wide and seven long. I found it equally undulated with the surrounding woodland, and could perceive no reason for the absence of trees, except the annual conflagration. . . . The numerous elevations which chequer this verdant plain, are so many partial attempts at shrubby and arborescent vegetation, which nature has repeatedly made, and which have only been subdued by the reiterated operation of the annual burning, employed by natives, for the purpose of hunting with more facility, and of affording a tender pasturage for the game."
–Nuttall examines a fire-maintained prairie that remains near present-day Fort Smith
Oklahoma's "Cavaniol Mountain"
“The Cavaniol [Mountain], now clear of mist, appeared sufficiently near to afford some more adequate idea of its form or character. A prominent point which appears on its summit, is, I am told by the Cherokees who accompanied us, a mound of loose stones, thrown up either as a funeral pile or a beacon by the aborigines. The natives and hunters assert that subterraneous rumblings have been heard on this mountain.” –Nuttall describing “Cavaniol” Mountain near present-day Poteau Oklahoma
