Transportation problem.

[brunsky]

Got my kayak recently, and after two trips I can already identify a potential problem. I have factory crossbars on my Outback Sport. I use the v-shaped foam blocks to set my kayak in. In order to tighten the straps down well enough to keep the kayak from moving, the straps have to be too tight for comfort. I've noticed the hull deforming slightly, so I loosen the straps, but at that point they're too loose to be effective at higher speeds. I have a jackson journey 14' with a rudder, so it's a heavy boat. I thought about taking the foam blocks and cutting them in half and moving them from the middle, under the boat and more towards the outside, so that they support the hull better. Have any other suggestions, or (I'm hoping) some experience with the issue, or something that I hadn't considered?

[Tim Eubanks]

Are you using bow and stern tie-downs as well? Without seeing your "rigging" I'm gonna try to make a few suggestions. Keep ropes/straps as close to the boat as possible, that is don't just go from the outside of the bars.
Maybe ditch the v-block?
14' on a subaru with short distance between bars is gonna be tough to rig without some boat wobble.

[brunsky]

Are you using bow and stern tie-downs as well? Without seeing your "rigging" I'm gonna try to make a few suggestions. Keep ropes/straps as close to the boat as possible, that is don't just go from the outside of the bars.
Maybe ditch the v-block?
14' on a subaru with short distance between bars is gonna be tough to rig without some boat wobble.

I used a bow tie-down when I took it on the interstate, which seemed to work fine. The straps were as close to the boat as I could get them. Is it more beneficial to carry the boat upside down when using just the cross bars?

Also, I'll take a picture of the set up after work if I have time.

[Tim Eubanks]

Upside down or right side up, just get as much flat boat on the bars as possible. If the bars are adjustable at all, move them as far apart as you can.

[brunsky]

Upside down or right side up, just get as much flat boat on the bars as possible. If the bars are adjustable at all, move them as far apart as you can.

Okay, It looks like with the bars set so close together, I'll have to transport it upside down. The cross bars fit on the cockpit no problem so there's plenty of flat surface to rest on, I wasnt certain if transporting it upside down is a viable method.

[okieboater]

My best results have been using a upright bar (yakima sells them) and loading kayaks on their sides.

but when transporting just one kayak I have always loaded it upside down, with the stern towards the front.
I do this to cut down on wind resistance.

I use Yakima round bars and usually set them the width of the cockpit rims so the cockpit falls between the bars
if transporting upside down.

for what it is worth, has worked for me.

[Eric Esche]

Another tie down tip - If you do not like crawling under the car (and usually in the mud) to find and rig a bow/stern tie down point every time, buy a couple of feet of 1" nylon tubular webbing like is used for climbing or a strong flat strapping. ( webbing tends to last longer, but some cars do not have enough of a hood gap to use it) Open your hood, and find two bolts near the front corners of the hood. Buy a grommet kit large enough to have the bolt shaft go through it, but still hold down the strap/webbing with the grommet under the head of the bolt. Fold the webbing or strap in two and see how long you need it to be to fold under the closed hood and have the loop stick up an inch or two. Make your grommet hole in the doubled webbing or strap by heating up a nail and melting the hole and the ends to keep them from unraveling. Black is very unobtrusive if you want to leave it on the outside of the hood all the time, like if you haul all the time. IF you make it more than an inch or two long outside the hood, it will flap and possibly eat paint. Have seen some people color coordinate color of webbing to color of car. When not using you can fold under hood. Most trunk lids do not have handy bolts to use so most folks find a bumper or frame bolt in back and mount the webbing there with a biner for easier use.

I cross tie my bow lines using both hood tie down points. Hitch mount makes a good tiedown point in back if you have a trailer hitch. If you have a center point vertical rack post, tieing bow and stern line to opposite side usually works best.

If you are not into making these tiedown points, some gear shops like Ozark Mountain Trading Company carry these straps pre-made and sold in pairs. They make good christmas presents for paddleing buddies who you shuttle with.

Eric Esche

[brunsky]

My best results have been using a upright bar (yakima sells them) and loading kayaks on their sides.

but when transporting just one kayak I have always loaded it upside down, with the stern towards the front.
I do this to cut down on wind resistance.

I use Yakima round bars and usually set them the width of the cockpit rims so the cockpit falls between the bars
if transporting upside down.

for what it is worth, has worked for me.

I loaded it up yesterday after work, and loading it upside down seemed to resolve the problem. I put the stern facing front because there wasnt anything on the bow that I could have got my stern-line secured to. It also keeps the rudder from going crazy.

Another tie down tip - If you do not like crawling under the car (and usually in the mud) to find and rig a bow/stern tie down point every time, buy a couple of feet of 1" nylon tubular webbing like is used for climbing or a strong flat strapping. ( webbing tends to last longer, but some cars do not have enough of a hood gap to use it) Open your hood, and find two bolts near the front corners of the hood. Buy a grommet kit large enough to have the bolt shaft go through it, but still hold down the strap/webbing with the grommet under the head of the bolt. Fold the webbing or strap in two and see how long you need it to be to fold under the closed hood and have the loop stick up an inch or two. Make your grommet hole in the doubled webbing or strap by heating up a nail and melting the hole and the ends to keep them from unraveling. Black is very unobtrusive if you want to leave it on the outside of the hood all the time, like if you haul all the time. IF you make it more than an inch or two long outside the hood, it will flap and possibly eat paint. Have seen some people color coordinate color of webbing to color of car. When not using you can fold under hood. Most trunk lids do not have handy bolts to use so most folks find a bumper or frame bolt in back and mount the webbing there with a biner for easier use.

I cross tie my bow lines using both hood tie down points. Hitch mount makes a good tiedown point in back if you have a trailer hitch. If you have a center point vertical rack post, tieing bow and stern line to opposite side usually works best.

If you are not into making these tiedown points, some gear shops like Ozark Mountain Trading Company carry these straps pre-made and sold in pairs. They make good christmas presents for paddleing buddies who you shuttle with.

Eric Esche

I hadnt considered this. I have a ton of spare webbing, going to try this when I get home. I was just using carabiners and tow hooks. Thanks for the suggestion.