Post
by Cowper » Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:19 am
With an XP-10, you could be doing anything from light touring, to kayak camping, to some major WW.
When you talk to OOO, the first points in the discussion should be what type of stuff you want to do, and probably the next thing to talk about is the specifics of the paddle you're using now and what you do and don't like about it.
What follows includes a few “facts”, but a LOT of “opinions”. So I’m hoping others will share their opinions too, so I can learn from that and adjust my advice accordingly in the future.
BLADES (WHICH MODEL PADDLE)?
I personally don't find a huge difference in all the various blade shapes and variations, so choose well, but don't focus on that as your primary consideration. In years past, I liked a little longer paddle with smaller blades; that gave me "reach" so that sweeps would really turn the boat, but reduced stress on joints by not having all that leverage applied out at the end of a long shaft. More recently I've gone to the opposite extreme, larger blades on a shaft much shorter than what most like. So right now I'm using a 191 cm paddle. The big blades really grab a lot of water when I need to accelerate, but with the short shaft my joints can still take the total applied force and I can still hang onto the paddle even upside down when I'm getting swirled around. Blade choice is generally from several types that are grouped by intended overall use, such as “touring” or “whitewater”. If you are going to be doing some of both, I’d say go with a WW paddle to get the strength you need for that application, if you get a good paddle, it will still do just fine for touring, too.
SHAFT – STRAIGHT OR BENT?
Again, not a huge difference here. I keep saying my next paddle will be a straight shaft – less expensive, stronger, and where you grip it isn’t so critical so if you lose your grip briefly, you can grab anywhere along the shaft for one or two strokes and readjust later. And then I keep choosing a bent shaft at the last moment for whatever small difference it makes on reducing long-term wrist issues.
LENGTH:
See above. This one is really harder to settle in on without using paddles of different lengths for a few days each, in all the different types of water you want to paddle, with the boat you’ll actually be using, because optimum length includes consideration of both your size and the length of the boat you plan to use it with. The solution: Use charts, advice from OOO, and how you feel about the length of your present paddle, and then make your best guess. Missing your personal “optimum” by 2 or 3 cm one way or the other is not the end of the world, it will still be a great paddle.
OFFSET:
I feel pretty strongly that a 30 degree offset is a good compromise for a wide range of paddling styles. With the width of an XP-10, I think you’ll more likely be using a “low angle” style of paddling, so you don’t want as much offset as with a “high angle” style; I think that supports 30 degrees vs. the slightly more common 45 degree offset. When I look at the ergonomics of how I take a stroke, 30 degrees is the number that requires the least wrist rotation for me. Anyone who thinks 0 degrees requires less rotation hasn’t studied it carefully enough yet; they’re just rotating in the opposite direction, rolling the wrist “forward” instead of rolling the wrist “backward”. The mind likes a 0 degree offset, but the body and the wrists like a 30 degree offset more. Your mind can adapt; your joints are limited by the laws of physics.
MATERIAL:
OK, here’s another one I feel strongly about. Carbon. Within the type of paddle you choose, pay extra for the carbon fiber version. You’ll be using that paddle for many years; 10’s of thousands of strokes. Every ounce of weight makes a difference on how you feel at the end of the day and on how responsive the paddle feels with every stroke. The cost difference spread over that many trips is insignificant.
Trash: Get a little every time you go!
, I have decided on the LL Remix XP 10 that so many have recommended. 
). I really like the chart on the Werner website for picking the right paddle and length. I have had good discussions with them via email on more specifics. The guy I emailed still favors 45-deg offset for "paddle efficiency" with the forward stroke but that offset has always felt awkward to me and I much prefer the 30-deg offset. But I'm no paddle stroke expert.