Arkansas Canoe Club Forums

I've got an old Buffalo Canoe, which is I guess the old Blue Hole mold. Anyway, it is cracking on the bottom where the sides turn up. Has anyone got a good fix for this? Can I just fiberglass it?

I recently heard of something called "Rec Repair" might be worth looking into.

If its the right kind of plastic there are places that can weld it with plastic.

If not clean the area and rough it up with sand paper. Then heat the area with a heat gun or hair dryer. Get it hot but not soo much that it melts the plastic. Then apply multiple layers of duct tape and press it on firmly with the back of a spoon.

This method works really well on plastic. I even have an aluminum canoe that had a puncture and with this repair method and its held up for 6+ years

http://www.recrepair.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Interesting stuff - I'm going to have to get at least one sample to experiment with.

I've seen some pretty extensive repairs with fiberglass, so yes, I think that would work.

I'm leary of welding repairs; don't know how that would work with the ABS foam core.

I'd send a PM to Painter Bob or call Moore outdoors and see what patching methods have been used with any success on rental canoes.

WEST SYSTEMS G-FLEX or just drop it off @ buffalo river canoes , and we'll have it ready in about an hour!

dale's dryer sheet method works. i cant give the recipe due to patent pending

We (Byron and I) have done a similar repair to a Prophet (sorry Grant)that had "delaminated" right where your knees would hit paddling solo. We cut out all the "bad" stuff and built it back with layers of kelvlar and resin, finishing with fiberglass that could be sanded. West Marine's epoxy was the tie that binds.

Duck tape: the universal repair kit.

painterbob wrote:WEST SYSTEMS G-FLEX or just drop it off @ buffalo river canoes , and we'll have it ready in about an hour!

I'm with Painter Bob on this one. G-Flex is versatile, flexible, and really tough stuff. However, G-Flex doesn’t reach its initial cure until 7 – 10 hours and it doesn’t reach a full cure until 24 hours. So, having a boat ready to leave the shop in “one hour” might be a little hopeful. Also, there are two types of G-Flex available, 650 and 655 (thickened). Depending on the size of the boat's hull cracks, you might want to go with the 655 (thickened) if they are larger. Here is a link, I'm sure most have seen, to the West Systems G-Flex demo and torture video:
http://www.westsystem.us/ss/g-flex-torture-demo/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.westsystem.us/ss/g-flex-demo/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Fish wrote:Duck tape: the universal repair kit.

I always carry at least one roll of duct tape with me for all kinds of quick fixes. Good advice, Fish.

Dave Thomas wrote:

Fish wrote:Duck tape: the universal repair kit.

I always carry at least one roll of duct tape with me for all kinds of quick fixes. Good advice, Fish.

1st

prophet, you are welcome to disclose my method, unless you are patenting it. dale

canoe wrote:prophet, you are welcome to disclose my method, unless you are patenting it. dale

i thought you were. not sure if i even do it right was the main reason i didnt put it up

Dryer sheets (things you put in the dryer to do whatever) and a marine adhesive. Or something like that. Clean as usual, and put as few as layers down as possible. If this is a proactive patch it would work without filler if the boat is not used that much. Again, I would defer to Dr. Dale on this method.

That will be $00.02.

I would give you the recipe,if I wasn't limited to 1 finger typing right now(as oppossed to 2 finger typing as usual) dale