Boundary Waters

[Mike Waggoner]

A few of us are planning a trip to the boundary Waters this summer. I have been there before but want to enter at a different spot and travel where I have not before.

Please tell me about an enjoyable trip you had on the Boundary Waters, if possible add the enty point and exit point, what time of year you went, what you encountered (weather, bugs, bears). Would you do it again?

Last trip I went on was in 2005 the week before Labor day. Entry was at point 30 at Lake One, we traveled about 50 miles across 13 lakes. The weather was great except for day one starting out in the rain and day four when the wind blew 30+ mph constantly locking us in camp. The bugs were not bad until the last day when the black flies must of hatched. We caught numerous fish but was disappointed in the wildlife, we saw no moose or bear as we had hoped. We came out at point 27 on Snowbank Lake. Yes I would do this trip again. The base camp two days in was great with numerous side trips to isolated lakes.

[Roy Staggs]

Mike, have you checked bwca.com. It would be hard to find anybody who knows more about the Boundary Waters. I would like to make a trip myself this spring/summer.

[Richard]

The boundary waters is on my list for this summer as well. Its my understanding that the worst time to go bugwise is June and that things get progressively better as you go into late summer. I have the belief that fewer miles is always better and I hope to have at least a couple of layover days. Also the fewer portages the better although I understand that means seeing more people.

[okieboater]

Been years ago but I made two trips up there. I had great times and need to go back.

Both times we did the numbered lakes and the big one Insula I think as well and on out from there. Memory of exact names not that good.

We tended to have travel days and base camp fish days. This made for a relaxing trip. I would not go with a must make number of miles each day. We never had a bad camp site and it is great to relax around camp. My advice is have at least one or more lay over days just in case plus carry some extra days food.

Those days I considered myself a pretty good fisherman. Never caught a cooking fish on either trip. I recommend you not depend on a fresh fish dinner, but if you do get lucky fresh fish out of clean water is something to write home about. Several times on the big lakes I would put out a string of spoons (which worked well for me up in Yellowstone area but did not work in MN.)

Here is what I remember from both trips.

There was a good grocery store there in Ely MN that had a lot of good tripping food. IE frozen meat etc.

We did the steaks and a few other things and they worked out great.

Otherwise, take food that works out of the cooler. We had one of the little folding coolers and it worked great for several days.

We used water right out of the lakes for cooking, did boil the drinking water.

We went both times early in the season. bugs no problem on the lake or we choose camps on points and no bug problems. Going back to the latrines at our camps meant going into the thicker woods and bugs were awesome back there. Be prepared when you bare your butt to do number two in these shaded wooded latrines. reguardless, I would take at least a bug head net and a net shirt deal would be even better just in case.

We did week trips and both trips had to lay over a couple days due to wind on the big lakes.

Portage is the pits. Take what gear you need but remember you got to carry it. Think backpacker not western river raft type gear. First trip was in a aluminum canoe and was miserable to carry. Second trip was in a kevlar mad river explorer and it made the difference. You need to work out portage routines. The fewer trips the better.

Getting in and out of canoes and portage is a wet muddy mess on many of the portage spots. You will have mud and then rocky trails to contend with. Get the proper footwear of your choice.

navigation across the big lakes requires attention. My trips were pre gps and I put a compass and my map in front of me in the canoe and picked out points to navigate to with the compass. Everything looks the same so you must pay attention. GPS would be a blessing. The maps are good and the main outfitter next to the moose has good maps. Both times when we got out we went to the Chocolate Moose and ate burgers, frys and homemade ice cream shakes. Not sure if the moose is still any good but it was an awesome place to eat.

Just like most places days can be nice, but a front can come in and it gets really cold, so bring extra fleece and hope you do not need the fleece.

Rain suit and pants are a must and get the best set you can afford. I ended up wearing capeline underwear under my rain suit on days it rained.

You must have a good tarp and know how to set it up, needed for cooking as we got lots of rain. not sure what your weather will be. Ours was blue sky nice one day and cloudy and cold the next. Be prepared.

We had zero bear problems. Just from my reading about the area, seems like bears have become more of a problem. I recommend at least one can of bear spray, maybe a backup as if you have to use one can of spray chances are you will run into another bear.

That is most of my memory on tips. It is a great trip and one that we need to take more than once.

[Jim Krueger]

Due to my dad's career in the Army, my family spent almost three years living/stationed in Minnesota in the early sixties, and I still reflect on that experience with relish.(and some character building during the Winters :) )
It's such a long trip up there, I'd also vote to enjoy the place without spending too much of your time paddling and portaging. MHO.


Best Regards
Jim Moose

P.S. You can bring me some Hamms Beer if you'd like...

[Stan]

I have spent quite a bit of time paddling in northern Wisconsin and in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Many years ago I took a trip in Quetico (Canada’s counterpart to the Boundary Waters). My favorite time for canoe camping in these areas is September right after Labor Day. Why?

May and June are usually very buggy with hordes of mosquitoes and black flies. Plus the ground may still be wet from the previous winter’s snow melt. In July and August deerflies can be very pesky. I remember one trip on the Wisconsin River along the Michigan-Wisconsin border when the bottom of our canoe was covered with deerfly carcasses. They often had to be swatted twice to kill them. Deerflies constantly buzz around one’s head making a broad-brimmed hat very nice. Some people attach a “Deerfly Patch” (a sticky two-sided tape) to the back of their hat. Deerflies like to land on the back of the head and the sticky tape traps them.

September has far fewer people and can have very nice weather with temps in the 70s. It can also be cold and rainy but that is true for any northern summer month. Several times I have paddled in July in the rain with the high temperature right around 60. I have also seen hot, sunny days with temps in the 90s. I recommend being prepared for both ends of the temperature spectrum.

Mosquitoes can be a problem May through September but the odds are there will be fewer of them in September. On one 9-day September trip I had one mosquito bite; on another we were surrounded by clouds of them.

I like to paddle in the Sylvania Wilderness Area, a miniature version of the Boundary Waters. Sylvania has lakes with camping sites and an old growth forest. Last fall I saw eagles (5 in the air at the same time), ospreys, otters, loons, wild rice among other things. It is located along the Michigan-Wisconsin border near Watersmeet, Michigan. About 60 miles north of Sylvania is the Porcupine Mountains State Park Wilderness Area, which has the Midwest’s largest stand of old growth forest.

I really like canoe camping on Isle Royale National Park which is even farther north in Lake Superior. This trip takes careful planning because the island is very remote and Lake Superior can produce some terrific storms.


“Stan” (AKA Margaret Bartelt)

[Richard]

And closer to home is the Buckville area of Lake Ouachita.

[Mike Waggoner]

Thank you for your contributions.
We have elected to go in on Bruel Lake (point 41) and tour this area to the west. Our goal is to base camp on Frost Lake

[Chuck Ainsworth]

Mike, I guided up in Canada but I generally go to an area a little further north and a little further west than the Boundary Waters. The area I go to is around Bissett, Manitoba. Fishing is better, people are fewer, and it reminds me of the Boundary Waters some years back. If you go this year and you see that you just have to have a little more of the Northern Canoeing then keep in mind that I will be traveling north in July of 2011. You have any questions that you can't answer email me at guadalupecanoe@gmail.com. Hope you have a good trip this summer.

Chuck Ainsworth

[Richard]

This looks like a great source of information including a checklist

http://www.packetrat.net/bwcaw/planning.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[cole m]

I went in june.Lots of mosquitoes at night.

[Owl]

The biggest mosquitoes I ever saw were in the Boundary Waters (the ones in Jonesboro being a close second) but the most annoying insects were the black flies that could bite through wool socks. We were there in early June a few years ago.

Our group favored lightweight backpacking gear and freeze-dried food but I found it interesting that the locals almost prided themselves on how much their Duluth packs weighed with all the "real" food, etc.

[arkman77]

While I am relatively new to this site I have been a member and a moderator on the http://www.bwca.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; site that Roy mentioned since 2003. I try to regularly go to the Boundary Waters, and I will be glad to help any of you out with any information you would like. I usually enter on the Ely side and like the Echo Trail, but I can help get you what ever information you want. I am trying to set up a meeting with Roy and talk to him about going... particularly since he got his new canoe. Email is bruce_conley@yahoo.com if you are interested.

Bruce

[Roy Staggs]

By the way, my new baby is 17' long and weighs 38 lbs. Wenonah Encounter Solo in Kevlar Ultralight layup.
I'm still driving around with it on the top of my truck.

[Richard]

OK ROY! you once again did me one better. I can't keep up. I do now have the Orbit Lantern but I will have to settle with my Wenonah Argosy. Its shorter and slightly heavier. Gel coat adds six lbs. BUT . . . its purtier.
arkman77, do you see many Argosys in the BWCA? Do you have GPS waypoints, routes and tracks for your favorite areas?