Boat Trim Question

[DMG]

I've been messing with the trim on my Diesel during my Beaver Lake "conditioning runs" this summer (Who says nothing is running!). When I bought it last fall, I adjusted the seat to the middle of its adjustment range and left it there all spring just to establish a baseline (I was a total newbie). The boat handled fine on class II+ stuff as far as I could tell, not having had anything else to compare it to. I asked about adjusting trim during canoe school and the answer was, "After you've been paddling a while, you can just tell," which is probably true. Anyway, a few weeks ago I slid the seat all the way forward, which was only 3/4" forward of center, and took it to the lake. I was shocked at the difference it made, especially on an almost-eight-foot boat! The bow definitely sat deeper in the water, deeper than the stern if you look at the mold parting lines, but it paddled great! I could carve turns backwards and paddle backwards much faster without the stern getting shoved to one side or the other, all without hurting the forward paddling a bit (some of this may just be practice. I've been doing a ton of backwards work in flatwater). Overall, not having had any moving water to try it out on, it seems like the bow-heavy trim would suit an aggressive paddling style where you really reach forward and haul yourself across eddy lines and such. Pull the bow forward hard and the stern had better keep up! I think I'm going to give this bow-heavy trim an honest try for half a season or so before messing with it again. I think I might really like it!

I guess there's no specific question here. I'm just making conversation and fishing for general insights on adjusting trim. Is there a "right way" to trim a boat or is it just personal preference. How do you tell when you've got it? I've heard so many playboaters talk about how they hated a boat until they moved the seat half an inch and then they loved it. It seems it's worth some effort and experimentation to really get it right.

Thanks!

~Dave

[Mike_P]

IMO you adjust the seat to the position where the trim is essentially neutral when paddling & where the legs fit best in the outfitting.

If you have a Jackson kayak they suggest adjusting the seat such that the knees are as close to the peak of the molded area on the outside of their boats into which your legs are positioned.

Some say for play boaters certain moves are easier with certain seat positions (seat forward for bow stalls, seat back for stern squirts) but since I'm no play boater I can't really speak to that from any experience.

my 2 cents,
Mike P.
Rogers

[Cowper]

Anyway, a few weeks ago I slid the seat all the way forward, which was only 3/4" forward of center, and took it to the lake. I was shocked at the difference it made, especially on an almost-eight-foot boat!

Is there a "right way" to trim a boat or is it just personal preference.

As the boats get shorter, moving your center of gravity even a little bit makes a bigger difference. Imagine leaning forward in a sea kayak or 16 foot canoe - you can shift your weight the equivalent of 3 to 6" but nothing happens. Now think of the radical short kayaks - the same shift might sink the bow and put you standing on end with one or two forward strokes. Your eight foot diesel is mid-way between these two extreme examples.

For canoes and paddling longer distances, I tend to prefer a little stern-heavy, because the canoe will glide further without correctional strokes. If you like being mean to kids, one way to do it is put two young, new paddlers in a boat with the heavier one in front. Then watch them just try to go straight. Won't happen. (PS - I don't actually do this, and given the chance I'll make them switch places to put the heavier one in back.)

In a kayak for WW, I'll tend to go neutral or slightly bow-heavy when "empty, summer gear", for all the reasons you state. (not counting boats so short that my legs dictate how far back the seat must be)
A WW boat is not going to track straight without constant paddling anyway, so you lose nothing by being a bit bow-heavy. Adding winter gear (more rescue stuff, firestarter, etc) usually means more weight added behind the seat, so if you don't start out bow-heavy when empty, you'll end up too stern heavy.

In addition to experimenting with seat position, experiment with how much you can change the boat handling "on the fly" just by leaning forward or back as you paddle.

[DMG]

Mike - Makes perfect sense! When I was boat shopping, I really liked the Jackson Fun series hulls looking at them from the bottom but when I sat in them, my stupid piano legs wouldn't even come close to reaching the deep part of the knee pockets. I paddled a friend's Fun at a roll session and felt like I was a bit too heavy for it (for a beginner who isn't playboating yet) but I could live with the outfitting. Went back to the store and sat in a 4-Fun and it just felt huge. I ended up choosing a Wavesport because I could adjust the thigh braces in enough to get good purchase on my stubby legs. I've been really happy with it. When I'm ready to buy a playboat (meaning, when I have room to store a playboat) I'm going to give the Fun another look. I think I'd enjoy it more than one of those snub-nosed All Stars. Thanks for the insights!

Cowper - Thought you might chime in on this one. Good advice always! I'm taking my screwdriver with me today and shooting for "slightly nose heavy" with my year-round drybag (first aid/firestarter/flashlight/multitool kit, two 20 oz. Gatorade bottles, and sunscreen/bug repellant). In the winter, I can bring a Honda generator and a big-screen TV and it ought to be just right (or maybe just some extra fleece). Thanks always for sharing your expertise!

~Dave