I've got a Ouachita that's about 40 years old that needs some of the rivets replaced, they're leaking. Anyone done this before? I suppose I just need to get the right diameter rivets, hold a hammer on the bottom, get a ballpine, and brad them on the inside.
I'm wondering if a stove bolt with the nut on the inside would work? They'd be easy to tighten.
Thanks for sharing your experience with me!
Bart
Repairing on an alum canoe
Repairing on an alum canoe
It's not the destination, it's the journey.
Re: Repairing on an alum canoe
Bart, long time ago in another time and galaxy, I repaired an aluminum canoe after popping a single rivet by using a screw and some adhesive to seal the hole. Adhesive also worked to shield the threaded end of the screw inside.
Would think that the nut/bolt method would work along with something to seal it. Might even use drops of hot melt glue on the nut inside to seal those edges.
Would think that the nut/bolt method would work along with something to seal it. Might even use drops of hot melt glue on the nut inside to seal those edges.
I am I plus my surroundings and if I do not preserve the latter, I do not preserve myself. Jose Ortega Y Gasset
The earth is like a spaceship that didn't come with an operating manual.
Buckminster Fuller
The earth is like a spaceship that didn't come with an operating manual.
Buckminster Fuller
- Jim Krueger
- .....
- Posts: 1867
- Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 1:54 pm
- Location: Benton, AR
Re: Repairing on an alum canoe
Bart,
If the rivets are still in place, but just loose, you can retighten them by the two hammer method you mentioned. A little dab of clear silicone on both sides can also stop the leaking. My uncle built a boat in the forties he put together with at least a couple thousand small rivets. I put the boat up on a pair of sawhorses and ran several inches of water inside, then looked underneath and drew a circle around any of the leakers with a pencil to identify later. I custom-made a bucking bar that was slightly dimpled so it would stay centered on the rivet head underneath while I used a ballpeen hammer on the inside of the boat to hit each rivet a lick or two. The machine screw and sealant route is also good. If the screw protrudes a bit too far, you can always use a grinder to flush them down to the nut.
Best Regards
Jim
If the rivets are still in place, but just loose, you can retighten them by the two hammer method you mentioned. A little dab of clear silicone on both sides can also stop the leaking. My uncle built a boat in the forties he put together with at least a couple thousand small rivets. I put the boat up on a pair of sawhorses and ran several inches of water inside, then looked underneath and drew a circle around any of the leakers with a pencil to identify later. I custom-made a bucking bar that was slightly dimpled so it would stay centered on the rivet head underneath while I used a ballpeen hammer on the inside of the boat to hit each rivet a lick or two. The machine screw and sealant route is also good. If the screw protrudes a bit too far, you can always use a grinder to flush them down to the nut.
Best Regards
Jim
Re: Repairing on an alum canoe
If you don't want to do it yourself call the local airport and get a mechanics number. The have the bucking tools an rivets to take care of it. Semi trailer repair shops can also do it. Most of the trucking company shops can do it as well.
If you want to do it yourself follow Jims instructions.
The airplane mechanic would probably do it fort little of nothing and have a great story to tell.
If you want to do it yourself follow Jims instructions.
The airplane mechanic would probably do it fort little of nothing and have a great story to tell.
Re: Repairing on an alum canoe
A Google search for "aluminum boat rivet repair" reveals a number of options.
Re: Repairing on an alum canoe
Thanks for the replies! I opted for 1/2" stainless screws with a nylon lock nut. I put a little sealer on before tightening them down. I haven't put her on the water yet to check for leaks, but it looks ok for an old aluminum canoe.
While working on it, I found the manufacturing plate. It's a Ouachita, made in Arkadelphia. Serial # 010891. That looks like it may have been made on January 8, 1991. I'm pretty sure my sister bought it in about 1975. I'm not sure if that # is the manufacture date or not. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bart
While working on it, I found the manufacturing plate. It's a Ouachita, made in Arkadelphia. Serial # 010891. That looks like it may have been made on January 8, 1991. I'm pretty sure my sister bought it in about 1975. I'm not sure if that # is the manufacture date or not. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bart
It's not the destination, it's the journey.
- Jim Krueger
- .....
- Posts: 1867
- Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2005 1:54 pm
- Location: Benton, AR
Re: Repairing on an alum canoe
Hey Bart,
Your canoe was made there in Arkadelphia for sure, but not in 1991. I moved to Arkadelphia in 1972 and the Ouachita Boat Co. plant was still operational on South third street only until about the mid seventies or so. You may have to do further research to establish the exact date your particular boat was made.
Best Regards
Jim
Your canoe was made there in Arkadelphia for sure, but not in 1991. I moved to Arkadelphia in 1972 and the Ouachita Boat Co. plant was still operational on South third street only until about the mid seventies or so. You may have to do further research to establish the exact date your particular boat was made.
Best Regards
Jim
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