trailer questions

[semast]

Is a 5' x 10' general purpose trailer or landscape trailer, think Big Tex or other run of the mill trailer, too short for hauling two canoes? These typically have a 36" tongue and a trailer centered axle, so your looking at 5 foot of boats behind the trailer, with the boats pretty much centered on the axle. I've read some previous discussions here and searched the interweb and I know there is no substitute for a real boat trailer. But, I need a non-specialized, non-boat specific trailer that can also be used for canoe hauling. Just wondering if I can go with a 5' x 10' instead of 12 footer. I'm thinking it will be too short but would like to know if others have tried this and how it might have worked.
Scott

[Canoe_Codger]

Scott, I had a trailer like you describe. But when it came time to haul canoes, I bought a cheap Karavan jet ski trailer and built it just to haul canoes. The uprights and crossmembers are about 4'6" apart and from the front upright to the hitch is about seven feet. So my 16'9" canoe (the longest of my four) does overhang the rear of the trailer quite a bit. But the uprights raise the canoe high enough that it is not in danger of dragging in the rear or hitting my truck in the front in a dip or tight turn. Of course the trailer has tail lights and I still put a red hypolon flag on the rear of the canoe. But it is taller than most car hoods.



But you say you want just one trailer... I suggest that you buy the ten and build a removable rack to lift the canoes for clearance. Then rear overhang is not a problem. Just be sure to build and place the rack and canoes with tongue weight in mind. Tail heavy trailers can be unruly on the road.

Michael

[adamm]

If you dont already have a trailer, I would recommend that you buy a 12' or bigger. Reason being, you (and your friends) will find all kinds of uses for your trailer and a 12' can seem pretty small sometimes. Its much easier to not use all the room you have than to need more room than what you got.

[Jim Krueger]

Scott,

There are lots of run of the mill brand trailers out there but I think pretty highly of the Big Tex brand as being one of the more well made as factory trailers go. As far as hauling two canoes on a 5X10 foot trailer, I think it would be just fine. I might not care to put them in the bed of the trailer either, and let them stick out in back though. I think my preference would be to lash a couple of boards, bars, whatever, on top of the rails so I could center the canoes a bit more fore and aft on top. The added bonus is you'd have the space below for gear. I think they primarily make that size trailer for hauling two ATVs but I think they would be fine for adapting to what you have in mind. If you want to get more creative, you can always build a rudimentary canoe/kayak rack that can be placed in the trailer and secured when needed. No matter the brand, I don't think you'd push the weight capacity of any of them carrying two canoes around. I do like trailers well-built enough to feature full size wheels and tires over those that have what I refer to as wheel barrow-sized wheels though .02cents worth.
Best Regards
Jim

[Cowper]

I recently added a trailer to my toy list. Went with the 8' X 14' single axle, by PJ Trailers. I've been VERY happy with it. As with all things, there are pros and cons. Here are some of my thoughts:

Could have gone double axle, 16' for a few hundred more, giving much more capacity. BUT, would have also been twice as many tires to replace, I rarely need that much capacity, brakes to maintain... so I'm still happy with my choice as a "compromise" that meets 99% of my needs.

PJ Trailers - a little more expensive, but I see things I like: Replaceable fenders. Heavier gage, well routed wiring that doesn't hang down below frame. Bulldog hitch. Grease zirks on the wheels for easier bearing re-greasing. If you look at details, it seems to me to be very well designed and constructed.

8' X 14' - Right size for my needs - I wanted one that could carry my Star 13.5 foot raft already inflated and ready to float so I can get on the water quick enough to join a group of canoes or kayaks without having to get there 45 minutes to an hour sooner so I can rig. The 8' width does make the trailer wider than my truck, so I do have to be careful to stay centered in your lane, watch for mailboxes, etc. and be more careful to make wide turns.

I would suggest considering 7' X 12' as a good size for the original poster, to do what they want plus more. A 7' width would add stability even with a rack that was tall enough to carry 4 canoes. 12' length won't be that much different price-wise, but will make it easier to balance out and less rear overhang, plus give you bonus space for your other utility trailer needs. Even if your goal is 2, having space for 4 will greatly simply shuttle plans when you meet others at the river. I really think the removable rack idea suggested by others is on target for your "multi-purpose" needs trailer.

[semast]

I just keep looking at the 5' by 10' landscape trailer from Big Tex. With the higher, solid sides and larger tires I'm close to 4' off the ground out of the gate. I could add some riser bars or 2x4s for hauling two boats and keep gear contained while on the road. I'm short on room for storage so that kind of maxes me out, maybe 5' by 12'. I was mostly concerned with the overhang from the rear causing trouble.
I do like the jet ski trailer conversion and might consider a similar design but I want to be able to haul a raft inflated and rigged.
I'm still able to run shuttle though, so lets go.

[adamm]

what size raft are you hauling?

[semast]

10.5 by 5 hyside but could still haul a 6 by 12 without too much issue.

[Canoe_Codger]

If you do go with a utility trailer and removable rack to lift the canoes, spend a few dollars more and have a tubeular metal rack welded up. A (bolted/screwed/nailed) lumber rack will not hold up long to the vibration and flexing in road use. Many years ago I tried this on a trailer used to trasport concrete forming tools, lumber and materials. It worked just fine for a short while but quickly became a wobbly dangerous mess, not something you want to pull down the road at highway speeds.

I exempt simple wood crossmembers directly on top of steel side rails. That would work, but not give the needed height for ground clearance and for keeping taller items in the bed and providing access while the canoes are loaded. I've hauled canoes on my 5x10 utility trailer and, for me, it was not satisfactory. And one still has to do something about the relatively open side rails and front rail to make sure gear doesn't blow or fall out. I used a cut down, discarded poly truck bed liner for that. But it became the material used in making the bed in my jet ski canoe trailer.

Whatever you decide to do, it is a good idea to buy a length of steel chain and cut it into single links to be welded to the frame for tiedown points. I use wench straps and the loops formed by the chain links give and excellent, positive attachment point for the strap hooks, no worry about them sliding around on the trailer frame. They don't get in the way when not needed and also make good tie points when using rope to secure a load.

Michael

[philllll]

I've used one of these for just over a year now. AWESOME set up... really sorted out.
-long tongue makes canoes/sea kayaks easy
-totally dry storage, not a drop so far (several big storms)
-no wet gear in my car
-chest high loading
-top is on hydraulic struts you easy to lift for gear access even with 4 creek boats on the rack
-top comes off with 3 bolts, so i can haul riding mower and such

yea, it's a few more dimes, but it looks good and is bomber.

http://www.spacetrailers.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[lona_2]

Note from Boofmaster: ??? I think not. Goodbye Spammer.