Buffalo River-Ponca to Norfork Trip Report - Mar 29-Apr 5

[Richard]

I finally uploaded my pictures to Webshots.
Robert Miller and I paddled from Ponca to Norfork in seven days. Water was at very nice levels and clear until we got to Red Bluff at which time the entire watershed got about 1" of rain over a 6 hour period. From then on the water changed from its impressive blue-green to a golden brown.

Robert is a seasoned paddler and backpacker. He has kayaked the Numbers in Colorado and thru-hiked the 500 mile Colorado Trail. Even more impressive was a 4 1/2 month thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. That's averaging about 20 miles a day. Does he know how to pack light and efficient? Absolutely! I was nowhere close to being in his league and felt very fortunate to have him join me. It was a great learning experience.

The greatest obstacle on the trip was the wind and it seemed to be most intense when we were paddling long stretches of water such as "Longest Pool" below Mt Hersey and the "Duck Bill". You may notice there are no pictures in those areas because it took all I could do to maintain a steady course. Steady course may be an exaggeration.

It was a wonderful trip and while I don't feel a need to do it again, I am glad I did it. I love camping out of a canoe and this trip just reinforced that. OK . . . I lied. It wouldn't take much coaxing to get me to do it again. After all this is the BUFFALO!

One of the big surprises is that the spring I discovered several years ago has within the last two years sprouted two more. The Buffalo is ever changing.

About the videos. I am not sure why some are full screen and others are not. If anyone knows please tell me what I am doing wrong. Also it appears I need to clean the lens. I may have to repeat the trip just to get decent pictures.

Enjoy http://community.webshots.com/slideshow/577339269UUEUdG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Rodger K]

Nice shots....Richard, thanks for sharing

[sugarmtngal]

:roll:
WOW, what a wonderful experience! Maybe you could plan the next trip on the Bitterroot River, Montana..............? Two weeks...........?

How was the cooking? :)
SYOTR, Gretch

[Richard]

I was surprised at some beautiful springs we found along the way. I am sure many were wet weather springs but beautiful just the same.

There is one before you get to Mt Hersey that originates not far from the river and it is beautiful. I included a couple of videos of it. My ability to hike is rapidly coming to an end but Robert climbed up to look at it. It is just downriver from Falls Bluff and just before Davis Creek so there is underground water just asking for a place to discharge.

One thing I failed to mention. Clabber Shoals was romping and the wind was too. I was very intimidated. Robert would have handled it with ease but water was running thru the willows and into the shoals which meant that you could be guaranteed being pushed into the big haystacks. Anyway, with Roberts assistance, we bypassed the shoals by working our way thru the willows. I am certainly glad he was along for many reasons.

Gretchen, at the Ozark Society meeting I asked several people who have paddled the Boundary Waters, "given a choice to paddle only one place and the choice was between the Boundary Waters and the Buffalo which would you choose?" So far the choice is unanimous. . . The Buffalo. Soooooooo, with the Buffalo so near why would I want to go to the Bitterroot River when I have the very best right here?

BTW, I figured out why some of the videos are bigger than others. I am a point and shoot photographer and I somehow changed the setting for videos. I am slowly learning.

[Louiscov]

Super report and photos Richard. Congratulations on the successful journey and thanks for the photos. Very nicely done. It is very impressive to put up so many miles day after day.

How did your outfitting modifications on the Prospector work for you?

Louis C.

[Richard]

Louis, the modification worked pretty good, however, I set the seat for a one inch slope to the front and next time I will have it level. I like the seat much better farther from the floor. Also, I think I will remove at least one of the other seats and add some rigging for tying stuff in.

[manumuskin]

Richard,
Awesome webshots presentation!
I have dreamed of doing the Buffalo from Ponca to Norfork for years and this spring appears to be my chance.I have 11 days to do it in but it's a day and a half drive each way so I'm thinking about seven days on the water is all i will get.I wasn't sure if the entire stretch was doable in that short time but you seem to have made it.Was it long all day paddling to do this or was their time for exploring or chilling in camp?
Did you perform your own shuttle or hire an outfitter to drop off your vehicle in norfork? If so which outfitter and did it go alright?
You look as if the temps were a little too cool for a dip.I was planning in going april/may but don't want to wait to late and wind up with low water levels.I may opt for the exact time of year you went.water level is more important the swimming to me though I do like snorkeling.
If you want to reply email my is manumuskin@comcast.net
Thanks for the presentation and any info you can help me with.
Al

[Richard]

It can be done in 7 days with good water. We did not feel like we were pushing it in terms of miles. We tried to be on the river by 9 and off by 5-6. Our big problem was a very strong south wind that never went away. You won't want to go swimming. It was below freezing the night before we put on at Ponca. Ground was pretty saturated so when we got a little rain midweek it muddied the river.
We self shuttled. Dropped a vehicle off at Norfork. It worked very well. If your time is limited, I would suggest you don't try to do the whole thing at once. Quality is always better than quantity.

[lbaker]

Wonderful Richard!!I've been back to work for two days,still getting use to the idea; something a lucky retiree wouldn't now about I must say watching the slide show was an excellent way to wind down after a long day...especially loved the vids and hearing the water!!
Thanks for sharing,
Leigh

[manumuskin]

Thanks for the Reply Richard.I just signed a new job posting and if i get it it will change my hours and days and I may be able to squeeze a couple more days out of vacation,like maybe 12 or 13.that would give me 8 or 9 days on the water.If I can manage that i will probably go for the whole trip.then in two years when i get two weeks vacation (working 4 on and 4 off gives you more time) then I will do the whole river again with plenty of time for hiking to other places i want to see.I'm a caver and may take some lights and minimal gear with me and i love old graveyards with which the area seems to abound.I live in south Jersey (The pine barrens)
and have a lot of flat water experience and minimal whitewater experience.
Also like old foundations and cabins which also seem to abound there.We have a few hidden graveyards here and several old chimneys and many old cabin foundations but we have no caves here.I have to go to WV for that.Never been in Arkansas caves.
Al

[Donna]

Thank you so much for sharing. That is an awesome presentation on and awesome trip!!!!!

[robkanraft]

Nice Richard. Nice indeed!

[Richard]

A note about caves. Arkansas has over 2000 known caves. We have a problem right now and to at least try to slow it down, The Buffalo National River folks have asked that no one enter the caves, at least for the time being.

White nose syndrome is a fungus that causes bats to use up their food reserves during hibernation causing them to die. It started in the Northeast and has rapidly spread west. It is now in Arkansas and surrounding states. Humans may not have anything to do with the spreading of WNS but right now since they have no way of controlling the fungus, the NPS is erring on the side of caution.. No caving please!